Montecatini Alto

Borgo di Montecatini Alto, the original nucleus of Montecatini Terme, represents its natural historic center. Also known as "the Castle," it stretches with its medieval buildings on the soft hill, called "colle lunato" for its concave and elongated shape, similar to a lying crescent moon.

 

Driving up, the first point of access to the town is Porta di Borgo, the only one left of the seven that allowed access to the Castle. Just beyond it, on the left, is the former Convent of the Visitation with the Romanesque church of Santa Maria a Ripa, dated from the 12th century. Founded by a group of Montecatini women, the convent later passed to the Augustinian nuns and finally to the Benedictine nuns as a cloistered monastery. Today, where the robust walls once rose, a long walkway, like an aristocratic terrace, encircles the top of the hill and dominates the Valdinievole and the castles that surround it from its nearly 300 meters above sea level. The Montecatini thermal establishments emerge from the greenery at the bottom, the path of viale Verdi is immediately identifiable, as are the main buildings, churches, hotels, and sports facilities. Along this pleasant perimeter walk, narrow paved alleys branch off and, with a short climb, lead into the village, joining in Piazza Giusti. The square impresses with its intimate atmosphere, like a good living room, with small artisan shops and characteristic locales whose tables occupy almost the entire area: you can enjoy exquisite Tuscan cuisine or simply be tempted to try the famous "fett'unta," based on Tuscan bread and olive oil. Encased among the buildings, you can admire on the left the Signorelli Tower, also known as the Ugolino Tower, and on the right, the Colloresi Tower, which houses a small 15th-century chapel, now dedicated to the Fallen but originally consecrated to the Virgin, represented in a fresco among Saints John the Evangelist and John the Baptist.

 

Towards the bottom of the square, next to the Monument to the Fallen, stand the Palace of Justice and the Podestà Palace, enriched with medieval stone coats of arms. The Theatre of the Resurrected Academics, built in 1920 in Eclectic style, is located under which the medieval Loggia del Parlascio is perfectly preserved, originally used for assemblies and markets. Going up a steep street, Via della Rocca, you head towards the Parish Church of San Pietro Apostolo. Before entering the church, it is mandatory to take a brief stop to admire the unique panorama again. Just below the religious building is also the house where the Risorgimento poet Giuseppe Giusti lived. Formerly dedicated to San Michele, traces of it can be traced back to 716. The church, with three aisles, was rebuilt in the twelfth century when it became a parish church, again modified following the damage suffered during the Florentine siege in the sixteenth century, and renewed in the eighteenth century, in Baroque style, by Antonio Zannoni. The last restoration of the last century has brought to light the original Romanesque capitals incorporated into the pillars. Inside, a wooden Crucifix from the end of the fourteenth century, the baptismal font from 1580, and an organ with elements from the same period can be admired. There are a Nativity attributed to the school of Andrea del Sarto and valuable works by Jacopo Ligozzi and Santi di Tito. The Museum of Sacred Art and Furnishings also houses the Triumph of Christ, attributed to the school of Orcagna: wide as much as 7 meters, the fresco has been restored to its ancient splendor by a recent restoration. Two paintings reproduce scenes from the life and martyrdom of Santa Barbara, the patron saint of the city of Montecatini, celebrated on December 4th, of which a precious reliquary with the upper part of the skull is also preserved.

 

After passing the church with its bell tower converted from a watchtower, after climbing a few steps, "the four Arms placed under the protection of the saint" have dedicated a peculiar monument to her, beyond which one finds oneself at the entrance of the Fortress. A single entrance leads into the Fortress, a large and evocative pentagonal space completely protected by high walls and by the only tower of the three existing residential towers on the site, as shown by the medieval archaeological excavations carried out in 1990. Upon leaving, one can continue along the path and descend further down the Via delle Mura, or return to Piazza Giusti and head towards the opposite spur of the hill, known as "il Carmine". There once existed a second fortification there, called Castel Nuovo or Castel Lemmi, then destroyed and replaced by the Convent of the Carmelites. This, founded in 1296, also incorporates the Church of Saints Jacopo and Filippo, where, in addition to valuable paintings from the seventeenth century, there are ten life-size terracotta statues depicting Carmelite saints. The only trace of the ancient fortification is the "de' Lemmi" Tower. To dominate the valley to the south, there is a graceful portico supported by stone columns that leads to the former Oratory of San Sebastiano connected to the Convent of the Carmelites. Descending inside towards the village of Montecatini Alto, the site of the Resurrection of the village, towards the center of the village, one encounters, among the walls of houses and gardens, the tower of Via Castel Lemmi and the base of what was the Tavernelli Tower.
On the panoramic walk, both in the north and south parts, we find some private Liberty-style buildings: two villas, including the Villa Grocco (named after the owner, Professor Pietro Grocco, director of the Terme and doctor of Giuseppe Verdi), and the beautiful gate of the former Quisisana Hotel, a valuable example of the Liberty style that had such an influence on the entire city of Montecatini Terme.