Galileo Chini's Montecatini, a jewel of the early twentieth century
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If today's Montecatini Terme is due to the mastery of architects such as, in particular, Giulio Bernardini, Ugo Giovannozzi and Raffaello Brizzi, it was certainly Galileo Chini who left a splendid mark on the city with his work as a decorator, making it a jewel of the early twentieth century.
The Artist's bond with the spa town is profound and is demonstrated by works of unique mastery and beauty.
It was 1903 when Galileo Chini arrived in Montecatini for the first time.
The Artist's bond with the spa town is profound and is demonstrated by works of unique mastery and beauty.
It was 1903 when Galileo Chini arrived in Montecatini for the first time.
He came to decorate the Pavilion for the sale of Tamerici Salts.
He was 30 years old and had considerable experience under his belt and a career studded with important awards, including at an international level.
Having lost his father at just 11 years old, Chini was forced to work and his uncle Dario, owner of an esteemed restoration shop, took him in. This early experience, later consolidated with the apprenticeship and work in the workshops of the fresco and decoration painters Amedeo Buontempo and Augusto Burchi, allowed him to master all the techniques necessary for large decorations.
Between 1896 and 1897, Galileo Chini created the Manifattura Arte della Ceramica which, in 1898, at the National Art Exhibition in Turin, obtained the most flattering success, the gold medal. But it was in Paris in 1900, during the Universal Exhibition that the Manifattura competed with the main European Houses, managing to obtain the highest recognition, the Grand Prix, thanks to the experiments with metallic lustres and the start of a fruitful relationship with architecture well ahead of its time. In 1902, at the First Exhibition of Decorative Art in Turin, the Art of Ceramics triumphed, also presenting splendid stoneware panels.
The latter, executed and signed by Domenico Trentacoste, were reused in the Padiglione dei Sali where Galileo personally took care of the decoration of the façade and the interior of one of the three shops hosted by the building, in one of which it was possible to buy the ceramics produced by the Florentine company.
Chini returned to Montecatini the following year.
It was 1904.
He was called there by the architect Giulio Bernardini to paint the vault of the Salone delle feste of the Grand Hotel La Pace, a building in which he would later also insert a beautiful entrance window and the interior decorations of the demolished café-theatre Palace Theatre in via Manin date back to the same period.
The years preceding Chini's third visit to the spa town, which took place between 1908 and 1910, were full of commitments, satisfactions and changes for the Artist.
His culture, which since his Florentine beginnings in the last decade of the nineteenth century he had kept thoroughly and anxiously updated through the study of international art magazines, had continuously enriched itself with direct experiences in the various European cultural contexts, which he had been able to internalize with a certainty of taste that clearly inserted him into the climate of the most sophisticated modernist and symbolist tendencies: without however revealing an easy attitude of slavish quotations, indeed maintaining a personality that was not only unmistakable but also singularly independent.
The concept, derived from the English theories of arts and crafts, that there were no expressive distinctions in the various artistic practices, had had few precedents in the rather traditionalist Italian environment ……. Chini, on the other hand, promoted, with his activity in the art of ceramics, a concept of industrially produced artistic work, widely distributed, with a very strong impact on customs and everyday taste: his ceramics were produced in large quantities and introduced into bourgeois homes an art nouveau taste among the highest in Europe, almost unheard of in Italy up to that time, just as his wall decorations emerged from the closed settings of the homes of intellectuals adepts of a sophisticated and exclusive taste, to spread into public environments (bank offices, hotels, theatres, temporary exhibitions), ……. These theories would be set out many years later in a Manifesto that Chini wrote in 1917 (“Renewing, let’s renew ourselves”), right next to the frescoes of the Municipality of Montecatini, in which he proposed the abolition of the Academies of Fine Arts that with their structure sanctioned the distinction between major arts (painting, sculpture and architecture) and minor arts, and the institution of “Industrial artistic schools aimed at renewing all forms of applied arts”.
Thanks to his assiduous participation in the great international exhibitions, which represented and synthesized the pulsations of the dominant taste of the time, Galileo Chini had collected an extraordinary harvest of consensus, gold medals, grands prix, diplomas of honor: both with the magnificent ceramics, and with the installations and mural decorations and with easel painting.
In 1906 with his cousin Chino Chini, he founded the Manifattura Fornaci San Lorenzo in Borgo San Lorenzo after having left the Arte della Ceramica in 1904 due to differences with the new partner, Count Giustiniani, who had joined the company for purely economic reasons.
In 1907 at the VII° Venice Biennale, he set up the room “L’Arte del sogno” attracting the attention of the King of Siam who called him to Bangkok to decorate the Throne Palace.
In 1908 he organized and participated in the 1st Faenza Art Biennial, which gave rise to the current International Museum of Ceramics, and received the teaching assignment at the Corso Libero Superiore di Decorazioni at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Rome.
Chini returned to Montecatini to execute the entire decorative apparatus of the Terme Tamerici, expanded by architects Giulio Bernardini and Ugo Giusti. For the renovated establishment he created the designs for the windows, frescoes, floors, ceramics and stoneware panels in which the profusion of his beloved exotic elements anticipated the extraordinary experience that awaited him in Siam the following year.
When in 1910 he was commissioned to decorate the Prah-ti-Nam, the sumptuous throne room in Bangkok, designed by the Turin architects Annibale Rigotti and Mario Tamagno on behalf of King Rama IV, Galileo Chini was at the height of a brilliant career.
In the short span of fifteen years, through a lively and multifaceted activity, Chini had come to emblematically represent a taste and a society, that of the Belle Époque, with an extraordinary complexity of values and moods, such as to make him an extraordinary case not only in Italy, but also in Europe.
1914 was also an important year in the relationship between Chini and Montecatini. Not because the spa town still saw him present but because it still preserves a work - or rather part of it - created in that very year by the Artist. And whose story is worth telling.
After returning from Siam, at the 11th edition of the Venice Biennale, in 1914, he was entrusted with an entire room where Chini would exhibit the paintings he had brought back from his stay in Bangkok.
The guest of the main room was the famous Dalmatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović who presented a large number of works in Carrara marble at the Biennale.
Probably induced by the candor of the sculptures and the walls of the Hall, the Secretary General, Fradeletto, asked his now friend Galileo to decorate the large mirrors.
In just over a month, Chini, working half the time in his studio in Via del Ghirlandaio in Florence and the rest in Venice, created eighteen large decorative panels on the symbolist theme of Spring that is perpetually renewed.
When the Biennale opened its doors, there were no eyes except for the paintings of the Florentine artist who unexpectedly became the protagonists of the entire event.
After the color reproduction with accurate prints, the publishing house Bestetti and Tumminelli of Milan will spread the knowledge and fame of them at a national level.
The paintings, which were probably destined for an ephemeral fate as they were made only for decorative and temporary purposes, at the end of the Biennale were brought back to Florence and after a consolidation of the canvases they will remain on the walls of the studio in Via del Ghirlandaio where a photo portrays them.
In the years to come some will be purchased by the director Luchino Visconti and others by the Galleria d’Arte Moderna of Rome.
But two of the 18 panels, which make up “La primavera classica”, in all probability the most famous of the Primavere, were donated by the Chini family to the Accademia d’Arte of Montecatini to seal the close bond that has always united the City to the Artist.
Galileo Chini's last important intervention in Montecatini took place between 1918 and 1920, when, collaborating with the architect Raffaello Brizzi and the engineer Luigi Righetti, he designed all the windows and the curtains of the new Town Hall, decorating the ceiling above the central staircase. The war had just ended and in these splendid mural paintings, Galileo managed to convey all his baggage of new moral expectations based on peace, work, and wisdom.
The architectural grandeur of the neo-Renaissance style building and the decorative complex by Chini make the Town Hall of Montecatini one of the most beautiful Town Halls in Italy, just as the Town Council wanted, which in 1911 decided to build it "AS A TESTIMONY OF NEW DESTINY", as can be read on the external trabeations, certain of the "brilliant future" of the town.
In 2023, on the occasion of the celebrations for the 150th anniversary of the birth of the Florentine artist, the Mo.C.A. hosted the exhibition “Galileo Chini – Works in the public and private collections of Montecatini Terme” in which over forty works by the Master were exhibited together with the “Primavera Classica” coming exclusively from the municipal territory as a further and significant testimony of the city’s sincere affection towards Galileo Chini both as an artist and as a man.
Note. The parts in italics and bold are taken from the text by Fabio Benzi in “Galileo Chini in Montecatini” published by Maschietto 2023
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